Confused about when and how to use a moisturizer as apposed to a primer?  Let’s have a look at what makes each one uniquely different.

The main purpose of using a moisturizer is to help the skin trap water in our cells by adding to and preserving the water content already there.  It helps keep the skin moist and protected all day and night if used at bedtime.  Moisture is constantly lost from the skin due to TEWL (trans-epidermal water loss) especially during the warm weather when we perspire as part of the natural cooling process.  Pollution, poor diets and stressful lifestyles can damage the skin, therefore help from the outside is required.  Even with external benefits, the best moisturizer in the world won’t create a soft dewy complexion if we don’t drink enough water.  Skin draws moisture from our body and if we are dehydrated, our skin will shrink, become dry and chapped and will wrinkle and age faster.  Anti aging moisturizers can be used at night to provide additional nourishing nutrients to the skin while we sleep.  Cold weather and dry furnance heat can also cause the skin to be very dehydrated so use a moisturizer all year round.

A primer actually fills and smoothes out the dry patches/flaky skin and leaves a silky, soft surface and minimizes the appearance of large pores especially for those with an oily skin (also helps to reduce shine).  Primers have become very popular in the last few years, originally used by makeup artists on models to facilitate foundation application.  The essential function of a foundation primer is to smooth out fine lines and wrinkles and create a barrier between the skin and the foundation formulation preventing natural oils in the skin from breaking down the makeup.  This protective base provides  longer lasting, more natural looking coverage.  Companies such as Cover FX  are now offering more specialized cosmeceutical primers to consumers; one for  anti-aging concerns, one for oily/acneic concerns and another for broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection (spf 50), lip primer and soon eye primer.  Once you discover the difference primers make to your skin, I think you will incorporate them into your daily skincare regime.

Can a moisturizer and a primer be used at the same time?  Yes, always apply your moisturizer first, then primer, then foundation.  Your skin will look beautiful and flawless all day!

Most people prefer glowing skin but excessively oily skin does not equate to radiant skin.  Oily skin can be embarrassing and cause acneic flare ups especially when the summer heat makes the situation worse.  The sebaceous glands start working over time producing excess oil.   Accumulation of sebum makes the skin texture heavy and thick, the result is greasy or oily feeling skin.  This excessive secretion results in shiny skin and causes pimples and blemishes.

This type of skin which has active oil glands tends to age slower than other types.  Wrinkles and sagging are less likely to appear prematurely.  Although oily skin is generally associated with teen years, age is only part of the story.  Oily skin persists long after the senior prom; some oily skin can last a lifetime.

Causes of oily skin: heredity, diet, hormone levels, pregnancy, birth control pills,, cosmetics, humidity/hot weather.

Taking care of oily skin: proper cleansing (avoid harsh products), use non comedogenic moisturizers and sunscreen products, remember that internal needs (good diet, sufficient sleep, healthy lifestyle) should be met as well as external, see a dermatologist for consultation.

Creating a glowing and non-oily skin is a time consuming process and the results are long lasting.  A little bit of discipline will go a long way!

Large back tattoo with half of the tattoo covered with Cover FX.

A young woman came to see me at the Cosmedic Clinic yesterday who wanted her wrist tattoos covered up because she had changed her mind and now wanted to REVERSE an earlier decision to PERMANENTLY decorate parts of her body with INKED TATTOOS.

Generally when I cover a tattoo, I turn to the maximum coverage option which is Cover FX cream formulation.  I try either one colour that matches the skin tone perfectly or use a very light colour first to blank out the tattoo and then follow with the skin tone colour.  Next blend and pat the product on and powder in between layers.  This technique often works, however in this case, I could still see the dark pattern of the ink on this young lady’s very pale skin tone.  Ha! I thought.  I was not going to settle for just an okay result.  I continued on with other formulations and combinations and realized that this process was getting very complicated and time consuming.  I stepped back and decided to try something unconventional in my choice of coverage products.

Ready?  I buffed on Powder FX in a shade called EO (our lightest shade since she was so pale) with our unbleached goat hair foundation brush (#160) over the entire tattoo and then using the same brush applied XLight Conceal FX over top in a circular buffing technique, then alternated powder and concealer a second time.  WOW!  Achieved complete coverage in 30 seconds!  Both the patient and I were amazed with the result and I felt like patting myself on the back for coming up with this quick and effective solution.

Our motto- the answer is always in our products, we just have to determine the perfect fit!

Ever wonder about the length of time we can safely be in the sun without getting burned?  Confused about sunscreen?   We humans have a need for sun exposure which is a primary source of vitamin D which helps us absorb calcium for healthier and stronger bones.  The sun radiates light to the earth and part of that light consists of invisible ultraviolet (UV) rays.  When these rays reach our skin, they cause tanning, burning and other skin damage.  Sunlight contains 3 types of ultraviolet rays: UVA, UVB and UVC.

UVA rays cause skin aging, wrinkling and contribute to skin cancer. They make up most of our sun exposure as they pass easily through the ozone layer.  Beware of tanning beds as they use UVA rays.

UVB rays cause sunburns, cataracts and immune system damage and can contribute to skin cancer (melanoma, associated with severe UVB sunburns occur before age 20).  These rays are mostly absorbed by the ozone layer but enough rays pass through causing damage.

UVC rays are the most dangerous and fortunately they are blocked by the ozone layer and do not reach the earth.

So, we know that being out in the sun without proper protection from ultaviolet light exposure can increase risk for sunburn, wrinkles and skin cancer.  Sunscreen is not just for sun worshippers, even if it is cloudy outside, you can still get sunburn through cloud cover.  Those with darker skintones, although sunburn tendency is less, need to be protected from ultaviolet light.  Most dermatologists suggest using a SPF of at least 15 ( with UVA & UVB broad spectrum protection)  or choose a higher sun protection factor of 30 or more if you have a fair complexion or are more sun sensitive.

Other sun safety precautions are: avoid the sun between 10 am-4 pm (ultraviolet rays are strongest during these hours), wear a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses: wear long sleeved shirts and pants: and stay in the shade.  If you do experience sunburn, take a cool bath or apply cold compresses to the affected areas to reduce the temperature of your skin.  Next apply a mild topical steroid like Cortate as well as a thick, greasy moisturizer or calamine lotion.  Aspirin or ibuprofen tablets can be taken to reduce intense pain of the burn.  Make sure the area is well protected for the next 6 months or it will easily get burned again.

The redness and pain of the sunburn will eventually fade but the aftermath can appear soon after the burn or cause problems years later.   Common damage or photo aging symptoms are  fine lines, wrinkles, age spots, sun spots, brown patches, freckles, dilation of small blood vessels.  The most serious after effect is skin cancer which can appear in various forms such as growths, sores, dark lesions and medical attention is then called for.

For common treatment of non cancerous sun damage, there are chemical peels, laser treatment, dermal fillers and cosmetics.

Cover FX offers sheer to maximum coverage of sun damage in 5 optional textures with SPF included in the formulations.  You can still have flawless looking skin and keep the sun damage you have your secret!

When brown patches caused by sun damage start appearing on your otherwise lovely skin, your internal alarm signal should be going off!  The visible signs of too much sun exposure either from childhood sunburn or accumulated years of being in the sun can cause one to feel self conscious about those unsightly brown patches and large freckles.

Help is at hand - here are some easy how-to tips for concealing unwanted signs of too much sun and products for protection against future additional damage.

Lupus is a mysterious disease to diagnose because there are fluctuations in the signs and symptoms and Lupus is often confused with other disorders and diseases.   According to the Lupus Foundation, lupus is a chronic autoimmune disease which causes inflammation of various parts of the body, especially the skin, joints, blood vessels, kidneys, heart, lungs and brain.  The immune system normally protects the body against viruses, bacteria and other foreign invaders.  With lupus, the immune system loses its ability to tell the difference between foreign substances and its own cells and tissues.  The immune system then makes antibodies which are directed against itself.  In other words, the immune system turns against parts of the body it is designed to protect.  This leads to inflammation and damage to various body tissues.  It is estimated that 90 % of people suffering with lupus will experience joint/muscle pain at some time during the course of their illness.

Lupus is not contagious and can strike men, women and children of all ages.  The majority of diagnosed patients ( 90 %) are women most commonly between the ages of 15- 44 and is two to three times more prevalent among people of colour.  It is most prevalent in African Americans, Hispanics, Native North Americans and Asians.  It is a major disease that primarily affects young women in their most productive years.  The cause of the disease is unknown and there is no cure at the present time. However, lupus can be effectively treated with drugs and most people with the disease can lead active, healthy lives.  Experts say the illness probably results from a complex mix of hormonal, genetic and environmental factors.  Lupus is characterized by periods of illness, called flares and periods of wellness or remission.  Understanding how to prevent flares and how to treat them when they do occur,  helps people with lupus maintain better health.

The origin of the name “Lupus” comes from the Latin meaning -bite in the face by a wolf.  Others say that the same rash resembles the pattern of colour on a wolf’s face.  Discoid Lupus is a chronic skin disorder in which a red, raised rash appears on the face, scalp or elsewhere.  The raised areas may become thick, scaly and may cause scarring.  The rash may last for days or years and may recur.  The worst comes when the patients loses hope and gives in to frustration and depression.

English Soul and RNB singer & songwriter, Seal has a condition called Discoid Lupus.

Seeing many lupus patients at the CosMedic Clinic, I have witnessed the incredible results that camouflage makeup provides to those who are terribly embarrassed by the scarring and discolouration on their skin.  Applying foundation is an very effective and simple way to make persons with lupus feel normal.  I highly suggest using Cover FX total coverage cream foundation or Natural FX hydrating liquid or Powder FX pressed mineral powder. All three of these foundations are oil, fragrance and paraben free formulations that will provide coverage for the discolourations and scarring of lupus.  These are effective corrective makeup solutions.

Acne affects the A, B, Cs of important components of who we are- Our Appearance, Behaviour and Confidence!

“I am extremely self conscious about my skin.  In my job, dealing with people face to face, I get tired of watching people’s eyes divert to the blemishes on my face.  It hurts my feeling, it is embarrassing and at times,  I find myself feeling nothing short of simply ugly”.

These three sentences sum up what many people who live with acne feel like every day.  Acne has a significant impact on a person’s  outlook on life.  The most common negative psychosocial feelings are social withdrawal, decreased self-esteem, poor body image, anger, depression and frustration.  Acne can cause  one to feel ashamed with no control over one’s own appearance.

Whether the lesions of acne are called comedones, papules, pustules, nodules or simply pimples, acne is the term used for plugged pores/follicles (whitehead or blackhead) that occur on the face, neck, chest, back or shoulder.  Some various causes are genetic history, increased hormonal activity, inflammation or skin irritation, stress, hyperactive sebaceous glands and bacteria in pores.   Acne is not restricted to any group; from teenage years to well into adulthood. Even though acne usually appears during adolescence when people already tend to be the most socially insecure, adult acne can equally distressing.  Adult acne is caused by sebum, an oily substance produced by the skin’s sebaceous glands.  Sebum clogs pores, which attract bacteria and become inflamed.  For some adults breakouts are a result of hypersensitivity or overproduction of androgens (male hormones).  But an imbalance in both male and female hormones (estrogen) can also cause breakouts.  For women, this can happen during pregnancy, perimenopause and menopause.  Some medications, such as corticosteroids and cosmetics can also contribute to acne development.  Diet is a controversial subject but milk (due to hormonal traces) is likely to be a contributing cause more so than chocolate!

As far as traditionally used treatments are concerned, there are various antibacterials such as benzoyl peroxide which unplugs pores & prevents new lesions and antibiotics (either topical or oral) which reduces the P. acnes bacteria, reduces the oil secretion and abnormal cell behaviour that is the initial cause of the blocked follicles.  Some other widely used treatments are: hormone related ( birth control pills for females ), various retinoid(Vitamin A) treatments and sulfur.  Since the 1980’s Accutane has widely been used as an effective anti-acne treatment, since 1990’s laser surgery has been in use to reduce scars and in the 2000’s blue/red light therapy has been introduced.

No matter at what age you deal with acne, people find this skin condition bothersome and embarrassing.  Here are some helpful tips for covering acne!

Having acne can be devastating and demoralizing, having effective treatment can bring “living” back to the life of that same individual!

“Well in the last year I have gone from being a no makeup person to one that won’t go
out without at least your cover up for my Rosacea. What a difference in the look of my skin. Even on the worst skin days-I can cover it up and not have anyone know that I am wearing any makeup. I love your products.” (Bev)

“I just wanted to take a moment to express my satisfaction with your excellent products. I have a severe blushing and flushing problem since I was a teenager. Everyday tasks like going to work, parties or other social events had become a very nerve racking experience. I had a colour match and demonstration of how to apply the products. Being a male I would not be happy if even a trace of evidence that I was wearing makeup showed. I am very impressed; no one has noticed-co workers, friends or family members.” (Alex)
These inspiring testimonials come from people who both live with Rosacea and use certain corrective types of makeup products.

Their incredible confidence comes from the relief they feel knowing that their Rosacea remains their secret because corrective makeup and excellent skin care address the redness and flakey skin which often accompany Rosacea. Look for makeup brands that have the ability to look and feel like second skin, match skin tones perfectly, stay on all day and do not further compromise this very sensitive skin type.

Advances in technology and ingredients now allow for makeup that contains excellent (UVA & UVB) sun protection and can perfectly match your natural skin tone. Therefore, green tinted primer or corrector can be eliminated from your daily regiment when concealing the redness and broken capillaries of Rosacea. With the advent of cosmeceutical colour cosmetics (makeup that combines therapeutic and preventative benefits of active skincare), makeup serves more than one purpose.

Healthy Skin and Healthy Makeup combined!

There are more coverage options available when selecting your ideal choice of makeup. If you have minor redness, you may choose a sheer coverage such as tinted moisturizer or mineral powder. If you have moderate redness, a liquid makeup containing more pigment may be your choice. For more extreme Rosacea, maximum coverage provided in a cream formulation would be your selection. Concealer may be used for spot concealment or in addition to the more sheer options cited above. Pigment load is crucial when deciding on the products that will provide effective coverage. Treated pigments in makeup make the coverage adhere to the skin for all day coverage. What gives products their opacity is usually titanium oxide or zinc oxide.

Makeup can reestablish your self-esteem and put a smile on your face when you look in the mirror and see a “redless” you!

I had a very interesting phone interview earlier today with a writer for a very popular online blog.  We discussed the contents of one’s makeup bag and it really inspired me to include some very important facts that I want to share with you.  Your makeup bag contains the cosmetics that you use every day, from mascara to foundation.  It is important to keep your makeup bag bacteria free, so wipe it down with either sanitizer or alcohol wipes.  Also important to keep makeup brushes hygienically clean, use either a brush cleanser or wash with water and gentle soap or shampoo. Rinse and then lay them flat to dry after washing.  If you use sponges to apply your foundation, remember they should be washed and if they crumble or fall apart, replace them with fresh sponge pad or wedge.

Make sure you check to see if your makeup has an expiry date.  If you detect an “off” or rancid smell in your liquid and cream foundations, toss them out as it is time to purchase new products.   Powder products generally have a very longer shelf life because they are inert-non breeding grounds for bacterial growth.   Mascara and eyeliner should be replaced every 6 months because the mucous member around the eye is sensitive to bacteria and mold growth.

Lipsticks usually contain waxes and oils and are less likely to host yeast, bacterial and mold growth.  Water is a media that fosters bacterial contamination especially if you apply products like creams, moisturizers etc found in jars with your fingers.  Try to wash your hands or sanitize them before you apply your makeup so you do not introduce unwanted bacteria to your products.

If you want to look healthy and beautiful, your first step is to ensure good housekeeping inside your makeup bag and products!

Parabens are synthetically created chemicals used as preservatives in thousands of  personal care/cosmetic products.  They are found in most lotions, cleansers, scrubs, liquid and powder foundations, shampoos, hand soaps, shaving cream, deodorants, toothpaste and many more products.  They stop fungus, bacteria and other microbes from growing in creams and makeup, especially in the moist warm environment of a bathroom.  Even though they are widely used because of their antibacterial and fungicidal properties and ensure longer shelf life, they have  become controversial ingredients because of their effect on the body.

Chemically, parabens are esters of p-hydroxybenzoic acid and are easy to identify by name, such as methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben or benzylparaben.  Over the past few years, a debate has been building among scientists, product safety regulators and cosmetic manufacturers about whether these chemicals that have been used for 70 years, may actually be harmful to our health.

Why would they be harmful?  When we use products on our skin, they are absorbed into our bloodstream and once there, they mimic estrogen.  When we have a surplus of estrogen in the body, there is a higher risk for reproductive cancers, such as breast cancer and uterine cancer.  There have been several studies that show high levels of parabens in breast cancer tumours.  There are also increasing rates of male breast cancer, testicular cancer and declining sperm counts.  It should also be noted that parabens may also trigger various types of dermatitis (eczema) and other skin conditions in both men and women.  Surveys show that the average adult consumer uses  at least nine personal care products a day.

Researchers from various environmental protection agencies say research must not just look at individual product exposure but must find a way to evaluate the cumulative impact of many products used over many years.  Agencies such as the FDA and Health Canada monitor products and ingredients and to date,  they feel there are no hard scientific studies that categorically prove that parabens are harmful to the body.  In fact, the American Cancer Society has concluded that there is no good scientific evidence to support a claim the use of cosmetics such as antiperspirants increase an individual’s risk of developing breast cancer.

It is somewhat of a slippery slope in that there is no conclusive proof one way or the other that parabens cause cancer.  So what can be used instead of these preservatives?  Without them, the chance of bacteria or mold growing is very probable.  Some alternatives are fruit acids ( benzoic and sorbic acid ) and at least food grade preservatives that seem to be harmless. As the debate rages, it comes down to a personal choice- if you have concerns about paraben filled products or have family history of cancer, there are options and choices in the marketplace.   We at Cover FX decided to make our products paraben free because we want our customers to enjoy our products without worrying about certain ingredients.

At least you can protect your body and have peace of mind!